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 Almost all fruit trees are grafted onto specific rootstocks. These rootstocks provide disease resistance and dwarfing characteristics. All the fruit trees that we have received this fall are on dwarf or semidwarf rootstocks (if they are grafted, more on this later). This means that they will grow 10 to 18 feet tall, if left unpruned. However, please keep in mind that fruit trees can be kept pruned at any height that the gardener desires. I personally am 6 feet tall and at full reach can touch an 8 foot ceiling. Therefore I would not let my fruit trees grow any taller than 8 feet because I do not want to use a stepstool/ladder to harvest.
We do have some fruit trees that we specify are "genetic dwarf" trees. These trees are truly dwarf. While the are grafted onto rootstocks that provide disease resistance, they top out at about 5-6 feet in height,have smaller spaces between leaves, and shorter, stockier branches. These are great for pots and small garden spaces. They will require minimal maintenance pruning and little to no height control.
We also have some columnar apples, these are also good pot candidates. These are grafted, and their growth habit is VERY vertical. They will get up to 10-12 feet unpruned, so to keep them in check there will be some top growth pruning involved.
Some fruit, such as figs, the berries and grapes, and pomegranates are not usually grafted.
 Cross-Pollination
Apples - Most apples REQUIRE a different variety of apple to be planted nearby to provide cross pollination for fruit production. We do have some varieties that are labeled as "self-fertile" these do not require a pollinator but will perform better with one.
Blueberries - Most blueberries REQUIRE a different variety of blueberry to be planted nearby to provide cross pollination for fruit production.
Blackberries - are self fertile
Cherries - see Apples,
Figs - are self fertile
Grapes - are self fertile
Olives - the Arbequina variety that we have is self fertile, not all olives are
Pecans - see pears
Peaches - All the peaches that we have are self fertile. They will produce better if you plant another variety, but there are soooo many peaches and ornamental peaches around that cross pollination occurs readily.
Pears - Most pears REQUIRE a different variety of pear to be planted nearby to provide cross pollination for fruit production. Like peaches, often times gardeners can cheat abit by using the neighbor's ornamental pear to pollinate their fruiting pear.
Persimmons - the varieties that we have are self fertile
Plums - See peaches
Pomegranates - are self fertile
Raspberries - are self fertile
Thinning
In general, fruit trees should not be allowed to set fruit the first season after planting. ALL the baby fruit should be removed to allow the tree to put energy into growth and minimize the weight load on the devloping tree. The second season after planting, the gardener can allow a small fruit set by removing about 80 percent of the baby fruit. By the third season and into the future, the gardener can thin normally, which means removing about half of the baby fruit on the tree. Fruit trees will always try to produce as many seeds as possible. Leaving too much fruit on the tree will decrease the size and quality of the fruit and put a tremendous weight load on the branches. This is true for apples, cherries, peaches, pears, plums, and persimmons. Remember, you are planting a tree for the long term, not just to get fruit next summer.
Figs, berries, grapes, olives, and pecans can be allowed to set all the fruit they want. Pomegranates can be allowed to set all the fruit they want, but I would consider removing most fruit from smaller plants just to reduce weight on the branches.
By Christine Hensley, Long-time NHG Staff
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